1843 Mexican Land Grant
The Ortega-Stokes
"Rancho Santa Maria"

From 1810 to 1821, the war in Mexico slowly displaced Spanish rule from North America.  In California, almost nothing was known of the fighting, and what few government supply ships that did come brought only news approved of by the regime. Because of this, Californians thought the revolution was a minor issue on the verge of defeat at any moment.

The Spanish King's most important officer in Mexico, General Agustin de Iturbide, swung his army over to the side of independence and declared himself Emperor Agustin I of Mexico in 1821, and so it was with surprise that Californians learned in 1822 that they had been, in fact, Mexicans for most of the previous year.

On April 20,1822, the Mexican flag was raised over the presidio in San Diego and her citizens swore their allegiance to it.  A new Mexican dependency which was no longer a province in the realm of the Spanish Bourbon Kings, that day, California was ushered  into a new era.  

California was declared a territory rather than a state, and as such was low on the list of priorities in Mexico. Self sufficient for some time, the change from Spanish to Mexican rule in California had little immediate impact, but it did leave their "power structure" uncertain,  resulting in governmental confusion.   Californians had little to fear from Mexican forces and offered them none of the respect they had formerly held for the Spanish Royalty. 

Governors were sent forth to California from Mexico City starting in 1825. The territory had eleven different governmental administrations between 1831 and 1836, and they even ignored an additional three governors sent from Mexico City. 

It was during this period that California was introduced to the "Yankee trading ships" which proved to be a profitable economic niche. Ranchers traded their tanned cow hides with the sea captains in exchange for household items and luxury goods.  Cowhides became so profitable that they were like "gold" to the ranchers who referred to them as "California Banknotes".

Edward Stokes
the English Sea Captain

It was under these economic and political conditions during the late 1830's that the English sea captain, Edward Stokes, sailed into the Port of San Diego.  

With the land locked up by the great ranchos, new immigrants had little opportunity to generate a living, except for trading.  A "Yankee" trader himself, Stokes readily became involved in several business ventures in the San Diego area. He secured his future by marrying into a family who was well connected through inter-marriage with other powerful and influential Californio families. On June 12, 1840, Edward Stokes married 19 year old, Marie Del Refugio de Jesus Ortega,  the daughter of his business partner.

 Three years later Edward Stokes (aka Don Eduardo Stokes) and his father-in-law, Don Jose Joaquin Ortega, were granted large pieces of property in the Rancho Valle de Pamo and the Santa Ysabel Valley becoming the first two white land owners in this area. An area once known as the "The Big Valley"; also referred to as "Valley of the Sun" by local Indians; the Mexican settlers changed the name to "Valle De Pamo Santa Maria", meaning "Warm Valley of St. Mary."  Later, around 1875, the name was simply shortened to "Santa Maria Valley".

It was a requirement of many land grant ranchos that a structure be built on site.  The typical rancho mansion was a long, one story adobe with shaded verandah, often with a surrounded courtyard. Separated by great distances made life on the rancho rather dull. When visitors arrived it was quite exciting and the rancho families excelled in providing entertainment and comfort for their visitors who in return provided them news from the outside, gossip about neighbors, and in doing so, created a rather gay atmosphere that was quite appealing to their normally routine existence.  

The Californios were just as passionate in their hospitality when entertaining strangers.  What we might think of as a simple visit, was usually turned into a marked occasion , a fiesta, a time for feasting, singing and dancing.

But then after their guests departed, life on the rancho returned to its normal routine.  The production of cattle for hides and tallow was their primary business, but ledger books for "Rancho Santa Maria" during the years of 1844 and 1845 show otter skins and wine were sold as well.

Large herds of cattle grazed the rancho's rich grass lands, so the Ortega family never went hungry, although their meals were beef for breakfast, beef for lunch, and beef for dinner.  Mr. Stokes complained often about his confinement on the ranch. A seafaring man most of his life, he was used to an adventurous lifestyle and more interesting diet.  But as fate will have it, the following year brought a lot more excitement to the Stokes family than they could ever have imagined.  

The Stokes played a cameo role in events that took place on their land, as well as the neighboring San Pasqual Indian Pueblo . Early December in the year 1846,  American troops pitched camp on lands what is now known as the Warner Springs Ranch. These Dragoons had already conquered New Mexico, and marched westward with similar intentions of conquering California. Commanded by Col. Stephen W. Kearney, the troops were led westward by the famous army scout and mountain man, Kit Carson.

At Warner Springs, the ranch boss was questioned and he "...spoke of the English man Stokes who lives 15 miles distant on the road to San Diego."   The Englishman, Edward Stokes, was summoned to the camp, questioned, and offered them the intelligence that "Commander Stockton was in possession of San Diego and that all the country  between that place and Santa Barbara was in the possession of the "country people".  Stokes was handed a letter written by   Kearny and instructed to carry it promptly to General Stockton who was head quartered in San Diego.

On the 5th of December, the troops still encamped on the lands of Rancho Santa Maria enjoyed a California-style fiesta thrown by their host.  But while "wining and dining" the American soldiers, it is speculated that the Stokes family was really sympathetic to the local cause of their ranching kinsman. It is also speculated that Andres Picos,  commander of the Californios encamped at the near-by Indian Pueblo of San Pasqual, had been alerted to the presence of the American troops staying overnight at his nieces' Rancho Santa Maria.

On the morning of December 6th, 1846, the troops broke camp and departed the Stokes ranch. Later that same morning they engaged in a fierce and bloody battle with the Californios at what has become known as the Battle of San Pasqual

Perhaps all that excitement was too much for Edward Stokes. He died in Los Angeles, not long after these events took place. By 1848 California was a United States Territory. The 1850 San Diego County Census shows Maria R. Stokes, age 27,  living as a widow with her three children: Adolfo, age 7, Alfarado, age 6, and Edwardo, age 4. 

The Ortega-Stokes Land Grant
Under U.S.Authority

With the signing, between the United States and the Republic of Mexico, of the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, the lands within much of the West were claimed as  United States "Territory". In implementing the provisions established under the Treaty, all U.S. land patents would first be awarded in validation of claims of those who could prove ownership under prior Spanish/Mexican land grants.  

The California Land/Boundary Commission was established under the Federal Land Act to adjudicated these claims. Found in the Bureau of Land Management files, filed in accordance with the authority of the March 3, 1851 United States Law, along with other declarations of Spanish-Mexican land grant patentees:

Jose Joaquin Ortega, and Edward, Refugio, Adolpho, Alfredo, and Eduardo Stokes for 17314.946 acres.  Issue Date: May 14, 1872, this is Document #: PLC 510;  Geographic Name: SANTA YSABEL.



Rancho Santa Maria
The Next Generation
Adolpho Stokes,

Adolfo Stokes, was born 1844, and was the eldest son of Edward and Maria Stokes. Adolfo became a prominent figure in Ramona, and ran the stage line between San Diego and the booming mining camps of Julian and Banner. It is he who built the 1871 adobe ranch house that is still serving as a private residence.

Train travelers bound for the northern part of San Diego county were dropped off at Forster's Station east of El Cajon.  (John Forster was Adolfo's uncle by marriage, his having married Ysadora Pico, daughter of Governor Pio Pico.)

At Forster's Station, the train passengers were transferred to a stagecoach for a long, ten hour journey which would set off at ten o'clock in the morning. The stage arrived first in Ramona where passengers ate dinner. After their meal they would reboard the stage, traveling on to Ballena for a change of horses. After passing through Santa Ysabel, the stage finally arrived in Julian.
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Stage Coach Travel

The inconveniences of  our modern modes of travel are nothing compared to what  passengers in the 1800's endured when traveling on bad roads in harsh weather which often made the stage coach run an exciting experience. The San Diego Union reported a typical incident in February 1883

. "Frank Frary, who drove the Julian stage in last evening, says that when he started yesterday morning the wind was blowing a perfect hurricane from the east and northeast. The stage swayed so violently in the gale, that fearful that it would capsize, he and the two passengers piled two or three hundred pounds of rocks into the vehicle as ballast, which they carried until the grade had been passed. "

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Adobe where stages stopped to change horses

Katie Leng, offered insight to our modern world about stagecoach travel in a 1972 interview for the San Diego Historical Society. Leng whose uncle ran Foster's Station, recalled the stages were... "miserable things to ride in.  Let me say that the stage coaches galloping along in the Western movies always upsets me, because is wasn't that way at all. The horses were trotted, with frequent breathers.... Also, there was only one man on the box, and I never knew of any of them being armed. They wore any sort of clothing they wanted to; nothing flamboyant. We never had a hold-up. The only real tragedy I ever heard of was once, before my time, a driver was leading his team across a usually dry wash and was caught by a flash flood and drowned."

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Revised: 29 Jun 2006 08:03:11 -0700.